Saint James Gate
5.13 YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British V9 YDS 7C Font
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||TR, Boulder, 40 ft (12 m)|
|Page Views:||545 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Victor Copeland on Jul 29, 2020|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
An old Lance Bateman project. Climbs the obvious left leaning thin crack on the south face of the Beer Can Cave boulder. Start standing below the crack. Some relatively mellow face moves lead to the crack. Make some technical, tricky moves to gain the crack and surf it until it ends. Then make some hard moves up the blunt arete and follow pleasant holds to the top. To my knowledge, this line has only been climbed on toprope. Leading it on gear--or bouldering it--would be rather sketchy. Video of FA from 2012 available here--footage begins at 2:39.