Deception

There are a mix of bolts and trad placements.  Stations are bolted.  Trad placements are needed on Pitch-1 and Pitch-2.  Other placements, except for the one noted on Pitch-6 and on the scrambling part of Pitch-9, would be extremely difficult to find.

The following description includes only the alternate finish (Pitch-9 and Pitch-10).  It does not include the original finish.

Pitch-1: 30m, 5.6, 2 bolts and gear.  Start at a 2 bolt station below a short section of slab.  Climb the slab up and left then through a break on the ridge.  Move left a little to a ramp, then up and right past 2 side-by-side bolts about one metre apart. Climb up the ramp about 10m to a 2 bolt belay below a big block.

Pitch-2: 25m, 5.6, 2 bolts and gear.  Climb around the big block on the left to the bottom of a shallow corner with intermittent cracks that trends slightly left.  Follow the corner to a bolt.  Move up a little then left to another bolt, then up and back right into the corner to reach a good ledge and 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch-3: 30m, 5.6, 7 bolts.  Follow the bolts up and right, then through a break in the rib on the left.  This pitch is steeper at the top but has great holds.  There is a 2 bolt station just after you move left through the break.

Pitches 4 and 5: 40m, 5.5-5.6, 2 bolts, belay station, 2 bolts.  It is recommend to climb pitches 4 and 5 as one pitch.  Follow the easy ramp on the left to a bolt where it steepens.  Continue up the ramp past another bolt to a 2 bolt belay.  Continue up the ramp past 2 more bolts to another 2 bolt station.  Once you reach the first steeper part of the ramp the climbing is very sustained.  Not recommended for beginners.

Pitches 6 and 7: 35m, 5.5-5.6, 2 bolts, belay station, 2 bolts.  It is recommended to climb pitches 6 and 7 as one pitch.  It is possible to place a small nut about 2m above the belay.  Continue up the ramp to a 2 bolt belay below a vertical wall.  Put a very long sling on one of the belay bolts, then climb down about 3m into the top of a gulley at the left end of the wall.  Step across the gulley and up a short step to a bolt.  It is easiest to move a little left to pass the bolt then trend back up and right and follow the ramp to a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch-8: 20m, 5.5, 2 bolts and 1 piton.  Climb easily straight up to a scree ramp trending up to the right, then belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the far side of the scree.

Pitch-9: 35m, 5.5, 2 bolts.  Walk up the scree ramp for about 20m then climb easy slabs up and right to a 2 bolt station.  From this station you can see a right facing corner with a crack up left (not the route) and a short left facing corner up right (Pitch-10).

Pitch-10: 30m, 5.8, 6 bolts.  Move up and right about 3m to a bolt.  Continue up and right into the right facing corner.  A tricky move gets you to the top of the corner.  Move up left into a groove then pass two more bolts to make a steep move on smaller holds (the crux).  Move up right to the final 2 bolt anchor.  An easy scramble straight up takes you to the descent trail in about 20m.

6 quick draws, 6 alpine slings including at least one triple length sling and one double length sling, and a few nuts and cams from tiny to 3 inches.  The climb can be completed without significant rope drag with just a single rope.