Dark Decade

Bolted fall 2021/ Spring 2022. Climbing is techy with often incut hidden holds, on high quality, sharp limestone, that offers lots of friction. Mostly bolted ground up on lead. Each station is bolted with rap anchors, but topo shows the ideal rap line. A 70m rope is required to rappel the route, however walking off is recommended on a well established trail. This trail does not return back to the base of the climb.

P1 : 5.10b | 15m / 7 bolts
Step off the ground just right of a right facing corner to find good holds on overlapping slab. Climb up right of a steep wall into a groove/ slot, and step right around a pinnacle to locate the belay.

P2 : 5.10d | 25m / 11 bolts
This pitch is characterized mostly by a rising left traverses. Overcome a steep wall off the belay using side pulls to pull over a ledge onto good slab. Continuously move up and left until reaching a high bolt where the route jogs harder left. Step up, clipping this with an alpine draw, to stepping back down and then begin a rising leftward traverse with technical movement. End with a 'no hands' slab sequence to gain the belay.

P3: 5.10c | 28m / 10 bolts
Stem and mantle out of a corner and over a small roof gaining easier terrain. Step onto a steep wall with a vertical finger crack to finish in a groove running upwards to a protected belay.

P4: 5.7 | 25m or 35m / 5 bolts
The junk pitch of the route. Both in terms of rock quality and climbing. This short lived pitch clips a bolt left off the belay and heads upwards as difficulty quickly and continuously eases.

Either use the optional belay bolts at the first station just below the vegetated tree island where communication will be easier. This is about 25m.
Or, clip this first station and continue moving up into the forrest and find a bolted belay on the back wall. This will be faster and more straight forward but harder to communicate with your partner. 35m.

*Move belay left though forest 30 m to continue climb. Locate two bolts for an optional anchor to begin second half of climb.

P5: 5.10b | 25m / 11 bolts
Follow bolts off the tree island ledge heading up and slightly left through thin and slabby holds. As the rock deteriorates stay just right of the bolt line to find great but thin hidden crimp rails. Off the rails work towards an obvious roof using good incut side pulls to find a hidden jug overtop. Rock over the roof onto good slab and head upwards towards to belay in a small bay corner.

P6: 5.10c | 30m / 11 bolts
Two close bolts protect an out-of-charecter boulder problem right off the belay. Clip a third bolt as the route reverts back to sharp and textured limestone. Enter a right facing vertical corner to climb into a ramp system and step out onto exposed slab.

P7: 5.10b | 30m / 9 bolts
Lead off the belay to under a roof and circumnavigate rightward pulling up an overlap finding hidden holds with good feet onto immaculate slab as difficulty eases to the final belay on a comfortable ledge.

60M to the right and slightly uphill of 'Beautiful Century'.

Bolted, with two ring bolt anchors at every station.