North Face

CLIMB:  Head up the glacier to the obvious couloir in the middle of the north face. It averages about 40-degrees, I think, to below the solid band of rock that caps it off. Go right toward some lower angled rock and scramble up to the summit plateau on mostly 3rd class rock.  After you top out cross the plateau to the summit.

DESCENT:  Head down the East Couloir route, down past Mills Lake to Ruby Lake where you'll have likely picked up the good trail which takes you back to the trailhead. 

If you camped in the Forth Recess you could descend the route.

NORTH FACE APPROACH: (see map as well)
From Mosquito Flat parking head up the trail for about 1.8 miles to a fork, take the right fork toward Mono Pass. Hike another 1.7 miles to the pass. From here take a left (west) up a fairly easy slope, at a leftward angle, until at the top of the ridge. Scramble down to the other side and into the Forth Recess. (This is the crux of the approach. To get to the Forth Recess from the ridge I climbed down and south to a broad, low angle chute and hiked down on mostly scree). Once at the bottom of the chute take a left (south) and head up the Forth Recess past Snow Lakes to the glacier below the North Face of Mt Mills. I have read that the approach is just over 6 miles.

Crampons, ice axe(s) and helmet. If using gear a 30 meter rope and light alpine rack.