| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m) |
| GPS: | 37.39253, -118.78903 |
| FA: | no sure |
| Page Views: | 513 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Cole on May 27, 2021 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Description
The left hand of the two gullies on the east face is the more attractive of the two - though it's important to remember the right hand gully forks almost immediately so there are really 3 ways to go here. While longer, the left hand choice has what I thought was a tricky exit to easier ground up and right or stay with the narrow chimney directly above. Either way low angle somewhat loose slopes above lead, at least in springtime, to a nice final snowslope which ends on the north ridge where a few rock moves puts one on the low angle summit slope
Location
The approach here is the same as it is for Dade (NF), Abbot and Mills. Leave the Mono Pass trail at Ruby Lake and find your way up to the long valley above and left of Ruby Peak. From there the approach is straightforward and delightfully so when the whole valley is still covered in snow.
Descent: The normal way off Mills is to simply return the way you came up. For a little extra spice, you could also down climb the North Couloir, descend the scenic 4th Recess (be aware there's a headwall to negotiate - take climbers right) and reconnect with the trail back up to Mono Pass. It's a long day but a really satisfying one too.
Full trip report (or sorts): Mt Mills - Up one side and down another



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