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Routes in Pilot Rock
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Crash Landing T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Blocks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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North West Gully T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b M1 |
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Step Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Joe Chaves and Chuck Porter, 1998. |
| Page Views: | 643 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | gso Orton on Jun 14, 2020 |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: South Face Closed to Climbing Feb. 1st - July 30th
Details
Closed February 1- July 30 for nesting Peregrine Falcons. As per the multiple National Monument signs, the entire south side of Pilot Rock (including all climbing on this page except the northwest gully) is closed for peregrine falcon nesting from February 1 to July 30. From the sign, "the small population found in Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument and the Soda Mountain Wilderness represents a significant achievement for the peregrine falcon population in southern Oregon. We appreciate the public support and cooperation that we continue to have for protecting these remarkable birds."
blm.gov/programs/national-c…
blm.gov/programs/national-c…
Description
Three pitches of classic SW Oregon Climbing.
P1: (5.10b, 100 ft) 4 bolts placing gear to 2 inches.
P2: (5.11a, 60 ft) pulling the roof on jugs, finishing with 5.7 climbing. 2 bolts, gear to 1 inch.
P3: (5.10a, 100 ft) Traverse left 10 feet then up orange prow and right through clean bulges, finishing on somewhat loose rock near top.
Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue. topos pages 102 and 103, cover photo, and photos on pages 101 and 104.
P1: (5.10b, 100 ft) 4 bolts placing gear to 2 inches.
P2: (5.11a, 60 ft) pulling the roof on jugs, finishing with 5.7 climbing. 2 bolts, gear to 1 inch.
P3: (5.10a, 100 ft) Traverse left 10 feet then up orange prow and right through clean bulges, finishing on somewhat loose rock near top.
Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue. topos pages 102 and 103, cover photo, and photos on pages 101 and 104.
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