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Routes in Pilot Rock
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Crash Landing T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Blocks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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North West Gully T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b M1 |
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Step Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 42.03069, -122.561 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,514 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Apr 30, 2012 |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: South Face Closed to Climbing Feb. 1st - July 30th
Details
Closed February 1- July 30 for nesting Peregrine Falcons. As per the multiple National Monument signs, the entire south side of Pilot Rock (including all climbing on this page except the northwest gully) is closed for peregrine falcon nesting from February 1 to July 30. From the sign, "the small population found in Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument and the Soda Mountain Wilderness represents a significant achievement for the peregrine falcon population in southern Oregon. We appreciate the public support and cooperation that we continue to have for protecting these remarkable birds."
blm.gov/programs/national-c…
blm.gov/programs/national-c…
Approach
Once you reach the the base of the rock head right. The route is located between Roundabout and Magic Landing. The first bolt is 10'-15' up.
Pitches
The first pitch climbs past a series of bolts to a shallow corner system. Take small gear for the upper portion (blue Metolius) and end at a two bolt belay. The guidebook says the pillar is loose and the belay should be moved, it is a little hollow but did not seem too bad. 5.8
Second Pitch: Head left off the belay up a series of chimneys. Make sure to bring some long runners and some big gear for this pitch. 5.7
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