Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Chicken Hawk
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Early Access
Routes in Tomahawk Buttress
|
|
Chicken Hawk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
I'm Your Huckleberry T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Kitty Hawk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.18461, -105.34048 |
| FA: | M, Juth & P. Findley, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 617 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 31, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Chicken Hawk is a good route with good protection. It is brawny and only slightly technical for those with good jamming skills. This would be tough if you can't jam, I'd imagine.
Climb up a mellow slab, first right and them left. Go around a gooseberry bush, and then head left again up on very mellow climbing. Head out to the right with a few incuts and jugs at a ledge below a bulge, set some protection (thin hands or wide fingers cam), and go right around a corner to see Chicken Hawk. Climb up and into the flake in the right-facing corner. Just as you hit the rook, the flake turns to handjams, and you can get 2-2.5" protection. Protect overhead, and turn the lip of the roof (crux, 5.9+) in a fist-jam by heading left under it.
Protect again, and head up a good jamcrack to join Kitty Hawk to the topout. At the top, head left (West) to a good belay with a cordalette on a solid boulder.
To rap, head up and west to the top of Shangri-La to a 2-bolt and rings belay. A 70m rope will get you down quite comfortably. A 60m will merit some caution and require you to stop on a ledge to the right and downclimb from behind a juniper (safe but requires some attention).
Location
Head downhill from the Shangri-La Slab and over right onto a 3' wide ledge. At the very right hand edge of the ledge, there is a poison-ivy plant to avoid, which is easily done. Likewise, the large 'meadow' 10-15' below this ledge is a nasty poison ivy patch. Don't go down there or drop your rope down. Thankfully, this is easily avoided with minimal attention.
A mellow section of slab with good holds and a few points of available protection climbs up and left passing a gooseberry bush and then back right to access another ledge and set of cracks.
The first crack to the left is Kitty Hawk, a 5.8, once you get started into it.
Duck right and around a corner to access 2 more cracks, Chicken Hawk and Tomahawk.
Chicken Hawk climbs up a thin-hands to finger to hand to fist crack in a right-facing corner.
Just left of that, Tomahawk climbs up through a 6' roof via a horizontal off(ul)width.
All of these merge to the left up top to a universal finish and belay up on a good ledge with boulders to sling. Take a beefy cordalette to belay from.
0 Comments