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Routes in Eagle Rock Grove
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Aguila S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eagle Eyes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fool Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heel Thyself S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jolly Rancher (aka Carrion's Delight) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kaya Bunga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lollipop Lamb Chop S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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My Corona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wings of Wax T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 42.13564, -113.66251 |
| FA: | Steve Thompson and Ian Cavanaugh |
| Page Views: | 606 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Evangelista on May 24, 2020 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Start in the same crack as for Fool Value but traverse left in the crack system, with the crux being in the middle of the traverse as you move under Lollipop Lamb Chop. Solid hand jams, great protection options, and creative footwork come into play through the crux. Follow the crack all the way up to the chains at the top of Aguila where you can lower off.
*Not sure if we made the first ascent. There's no record here in Mountain Project or in Dave Bingham's new guidebook. If you know who made the first, let us know.
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