Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Steve Thompson and Ian Cavanaugh
Page Views: 526 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sean Evangelista on May 24, 2020
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start in the same crack as for Fool Value but traverse left in the crack system, with the crux being in the middle of the traverse as you move under Lollipop Lamb Chop. Solid hand jams, great protection options, and creative footwork come into play through the crux. Follow the crack all the way up to the chains at the top of Aguila where you can lower off.

*Not sure if we made the first ascent. There's no record here in Mountain Project or in Dave Bingham's new guidebook. If you know who made the first, let us know.

Location Suggest change

Same start as Fool Value, but traverse left in the crack system with the tree behind you (it doesn't affect your movement but blocks the view of the crux from some angles on the ground).

Protection Suggest change

Gear .4-#3. Nuts. Draws and a couple runners to manage rope drag.