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Routes in Eagle Rock Grove

Aguila S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eagle Eyes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heel Thyself S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jolly Rancher (aka Carrion's Delight) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lollipop Lamb Chop S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
My Corona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wings of Wax T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ian Cavanaugh
Page Views: 219 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ian Cavanaugh on May 11, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description [Edit]

Pitch 1: Short but fun sport pitch. Start at the base of the large crack/chimney, clip the first bolt and traverse left onto the face. follow the grove up until it is possible to exit out right and to the anchors

Pitch 2: Climb up the shallow corner above the anchor (gear) to the first bolt. Follow 3 bolts up and left on some killer crimps up the just over vert face. Traverse the crack out right (gear) until it is possible to pull over onto the slab. 3 more bolts of slab that will make you feel like Icarus, shoes melting off with each step higher.

Location [Edit]

This is the first route you will see on the west face when you approach the wall.

Protection [Edit]

pitch 1: 5 draws and chain anchor
pitch 2: 00-3 master cams, offset 00/0 and 1/2 are useful

Photos

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First Pitch is way cool. I onsighted it not sure what it is. Jun 7, 2015

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