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Routes in Eagle Rock Grove

Aguila S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eagle Eyes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heel Thyself S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jolly Rancher (aka Carrion's Delight) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lollipop Lamb Chop S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
My Corona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wings of Wax T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ian Cavanaugh
Page Views: 200 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ian Cavanaugh on May 11, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Pitch 1: Short but fun sport pitch. Start at the base of the large crack/chimney, clip the first bolt and traverse left onto the face. follow the grove up until it is possible to exit out right and to the anchors

Pitch 2: Climb up the shallow corner above the anchor (gear) to the first bolt. Follow 3 bolts up and left on some killer crimps up the just over vert face. Traverse the crack out right (gear) until it is possible to pull over onto the slab. 3 more bolts of slab that will make you feel like Icarus, shoes melting off with each step higher.

Location

This is the first route you will see on the west face when you approach the wall.

Protection

pitch 1: 5 draws and chain anchor
pitch 2: 00-3 master cams, offset 00/0 and 1/2 are useful

Photos

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First Pitch is way cool. I onsighted it not sure what it is. Jun 7, 2015