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Routes in 3. Texaco Slab
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"Right Side Cleft" (far right of Embargo) T WI3-4 |
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Embargo WI3- |
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Texaco Slab (Center/Main Flow) WI3 PG13 |
| Type: | Ice, 135 ft (41 m) |
| GPS: | 44.13775, -71.34607 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,071 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Drayer on Mar 17, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Embargo is the shadowy cleft lurking high up on the cliff above the Saco River side of Route 302. Pull over at the Dry River Campground area, grab your binoculars, and look across to Mount Crawford -- you'll see it up above Texaco Slab, slicing down through the far left of the "Missing Wall":
Rumor has it that the full Embargo experience can consist of up to four pitches starting from the river bank. However, information on how to piece together the lower three pitches is sparse, and so for many the final pitch is the only pitch. [But see photo that might be the lower pitches. RHall NH Admin.] There certainly are a fair number of ice bulges and flows hiding in the woods to the left of Texaco Slab, and for the more adventurous among us working the puzzle can make for a fun and interesting day.
As tough as it is to find, Embargo is a reasonably popular lower elevation route that often has ice when other routes are "out". A rap station exists at the top. When finished, follow the Missing Wall back to Texaco Amphitheater for a few more climbs to end the day. But be careful: it's easy to pass above the Amphitheater on the return, at which point your best bet is to descend straight down to the river bank, pick up the footpath, and either traverse back up the hill to the Amphitheater -- or if you've had enough orienteering for the day, head to the car.
Location
There are essentially three ways to approach the final pitch of Embargo. All three begin by parking at the Davis Path parking lot, crossing the bridge, and heading west/north along the Saco River as if heading to Texaco Amphitheater or Texaco Slab.
NOTE: The best VIEW of the climb can be had from the dirt road across the street (Rt 302) from the Crawford Campground. Walk up the road to where the first driveway branches off to the right, and look up at the cliff; you'll be looking directly into the cleft that is embargo. See photo. RHall NH Admin.
Approach 1 follows the path up into the woods for approximately 30 minutes to Texaco Amphitheater. Once there, head past the left side pillars and all the way to the back of the cliff where many groups set up top ropes, then continue up the hill and into the woods. Keep heading up and left for approximately more 30 minutes, picking up the Missing Wall and following the band all the way to the end.
For Approach 2, continue to follow the river bank and then make your way up to Texaco Slab. Choose a line up Texaco Slab and then continue up and to the left, through a talus/slide field and on to the Missing Wall. Continue left along the wall until you come to the end, at which point you'll turn the corner and finally be able to see the cleft.
Finally, Approach 3. Head even further along the river bank past Texaco Slab. Find some ice at the water's edge and climb up into the woods. Tromp up through the trees a bit further. Climb another bulge/flow threading through the tamarack. Tromp. Climb. Tromp. Climb. Do you even need a rope? Keep heading up. Where are you? Find the Missing Wall. Right or left now? Eat the last of your food. Find the cleft. Climb the final pitch. Tell yourself you did it. You're going to remember how it all fits together. How there really are four pitches of ice hiding in those woods. How you've finally solved the Embargo riddle. Wake up in your bed, dazed and confused. It was just a dream. Embargo is still out there...
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