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Routes in Briar Ledge
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Dayglow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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God Knows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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House Broken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unchained!, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Untamed, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.5515, -78.3106 |
| FA: | Sandy Fleming with help from Bob Berger, ground up. Nov. 11, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 664 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mitchell Goldman on Feb 10, 2020 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
A short, gently left leaning and steep offwidth crack, made reasonable by a few holds, leads to a ledge. Now follow the line of two bolts up the left side of the nice, exposed buttress with some steep face climbing at the top. This one is sort of “Western” since it requires two quite opposite climbing skills – a bit of Vedauwoo and Joshua Tree together!
Bolts protect the most thin and committing moves.
Location
Directly across the Briar Ledge from the base of God Knows and the Untamed. The route starts in the short offwidth crack.
Protection
A single set of cams from BD .5 to 3, and one #6. Two bolts.
There is no fixed anchor at the top and no obvious options for a gear anchor. Use the rope or a long cordelette around the large boulder behind the dead tree, or otherwise get creative. Walk off climbers left and down the gully festooned with an ancient fixed rope.
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