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Routes in Briar Ledge

God Knows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
House Broken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unchained, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Untamed, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 454 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ed Wade on Aug 24, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a toothy handcrack and then drift onto face climbing when the crack ends. Move on up the right side of the blunt arete to the horizontal. Traverse to the left to the anchors that are common to all the routes on this face. Nice position on the upper face and well protected. A climb well worth doing when in the area. Tape up.

Location

Start in crack at far right end of ledge just to the left of a steep tree fulled gully. Single rope rappel.

Protection

Small gear up to #2 camalot. Bolted anchors.

Photos

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If you like run-out slab climbing, this is the route for you. I disagree that this line is well-protected. There's at least a 20 foot runout from the mid point on the slab to the roof horizontal.

The hand crack to start is surprisingly nice. Make a few delicate moves above the crack to a micro ledge on the right. Move up in the right facing flake to grab gear.

When you reach the small shrub cross over to the left side to get more pro, then move back to the center.

Then, begin the runout. A fall wouldn't be nice.

Doable, but you need to accept the consequences of a big fall in a remote place. Oct 18, 2015

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