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Northwest Face
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 3
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Routes in Lone Rock
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face (aka World Without War) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1 |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Horton, Hal Gribble, Steve Walker Feb 27, 1988. |
| Page Views: | 685 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Nov 12, 2019 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This is the “West Ridge” route listed in the blue Desert Rock II book; keep in mind, the route doesn't actually climb the west ridge per se.
From the saddle between Point 6,333 and Lone Rock, traverse along the north side of Lone Rock to the base of Lone Rock's northwest face.
Pitch 1: Begin up the furthest right semi-wide crack and climb the crack through a small roof to a chossy, but gets better, chimney to a ledge. 5.7 ~100 feet
Pitch 2: From the ledge make a 5.0-5.2 mantle to easy scrambling up the ridge to a bolted anchor. ~50 feet.
Pitch 3: I think we ended up climbing the last pitch of World Without War; which from the bolted anchor, make a hard move (we thought harder than 5.8 if the holds don't break) to a single bolt. From the bolt above the belay, don't romp up directly to the false summit. Instead, traverse left on a ledge, hop-down and then traverse right along the north side of the false summit to a wide stem to the true summit. The original route, I assume, goes down from the bolted anchor to a wide crack with some minor face climbing to the true summit. 5.8, ~60-70 feet.
To descend:
Rap 1: From the summit rappel from a jingus anchor (~40 feet) to a wide ledge near the bolted anchor at the false summit.
Rap 2: Rappel ~30-40 feet from the bolted anchor to the top of pitch 1.
Rap 3: Scramble out on the west ridge two a pin/bolt anchor and rappel ~90 feet to a ledge at the base of pitch 1. A single 70M rope will rappel exactly 115 feet to the base of the northwest face .
From the saddle between Point 6,333 and Lone Rock, traverse along the north side of Lone Rock to the base of Lone Rock's northwest face.
Pitch 1: Begin up the furthest right semi-wide crack and climb the crack through a small roof to a chossy, but gets better, chimney to a ledge. 5.7 ~100 feet
Pitch 2: From the ledge make a 5.0-5.2 mantle to easy scrambling up the ridge to a bolted anchor. ~50 feet.
Pitch 3: I think we ended up climbing the last pitch of World Without War; which from the bolted anchor, make a hard move (we thought harder than 5.8 if the holds don't break) to a single bolt. From the bolt above the belay, don't romp up directly to the false summit. Instead, traverse left on a ledge, hop-down and then traverse right along the north side of the false summit to a wide stem to the true summit. The original route, I assume, goes down from the bolted anchor to a wide crack with some minor face climbing to the true summit. 5.8, ~60-70 feet.
To descend:
Rap 1: From the summit rappel from a jingus anchor (~40 feet) to a wide ledge near the bolted anchor at the false summit.
Rap 2: Rappel ~30-40 feet from the bolted anchor to the top of pitch 1.
Rap 3: Scramble out on the west ridge two a pin/bolt anchor and rappel ~90 feet to a ledge at the base of pitch 1. A single 70M rope will rappel exactly 115 feet to the base of the northwest face .
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