Type: Trad, Alpine, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 160 total · 10/month
Shared By: Charles Kalinsky on Nov 5, 2019
Admins: Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description

From the Sacraledge belay, proceed up a steep broken corner on your left. At the top of this corner, continue up the loose gully feature to the back wall, where you will find a bolted belay. You can optionally link these two pitches, however rope drag and communication will be worse.

From the bolted belay, head up a cone of fractured columns in the right corner of the wall. Some small gear is available in a crack on the right. The real climbing begins at the top of this cone. Use a combination of the corner and a variety of face features to work your way up. Soon the corner becomes shallow, and two downward facing columns are found on the face on the left. For the first crux, Stem and chimney high off of these columns to reach up to where the crack deepens and hand jams become available again. Climb hands and fists, taking advantage of face holds on the left wall, and features on the right arete. Eventually the crack widens beyond fists, and will require hand stacks to progress. This is the second crux sequence. A vertical rail on the left wall allows for back stepping to keep you in the crack while shifting your hand stacks. The crack narrows again, and many hand jams and face features become available as you progress toward the finish. Staying in the corner allows for betting climbing and protection, or alternatively working right onto a series of flakes near the top allows easier climbing with minimal protection. Eventually pull right to a bolted belay on juniper ledge.

This route can be top roped or examined before leading by climbing a different line to Juniper Ledge and rappelling down. Protection may be tricky in some areas due to the crack flaring and having flakes within it.

Location

Climbs up and left of Sacraledge.

Protection

A double rack from approximately BD #.3/#.4 through #4 should suffice, with a few additional additional cams in the #2-#4 range (especially 4). A #5 could probably be used in the off width section, but is not needed.

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