Type: Trad, 335 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Barrett & Charles Kalinsky 2017
Page Views: 180 total · 23/month
Shared By: Charles Kalinsky on Apr 17, 2019
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Description

“She’s a beaut!” Exclaimed Zach Clanton. “One of the finest!” Vanessa Scharf reminisces.

Fun alpine climbing with excellent views of Kluane front range. 60 m ropes will get you up and down; you can rappel from all stations. It’s fairly clean, but freeze and thaw will make new crumble.

First two pitches were climbed bottom up, but low and behold all the loose rock spooked the first party to retreat. Two summers later, the group hiked up and around to clean the route from above. This made for a much safer (especially for the belayer) and amazing adventure!

First pitch, Half off House Plants, 28 m of adventure 5.6. Challenging to protect amonst the sand, soil and loose rock. But a must to get to the money pitches. Aim for a small ledge just right and below the obvious crack system.

Pitch 2, Chunder Gully, 24 m 5.8+. From the ledge follow the crack system up. Pull around a bulge (protect with gear 5”), and continue up pleasant crack system to a perch on the right.

Pitch 3, Chocolate Snot Rockets, 26 m 5.10-. Two cruxes with large gear. Climb easier terrain to a mash of rocks jammed in the crack. Pull a small roof, find jams and good edges within the off width. Second crux is steep and powerful, but delicate feet and creative jams will get you through. Aim left at the top of the crack for the anchor.

Pitch 4, Frosty Squeeze, 24 m 5.7. Climb right up the large gully to chock stone. Squeeze your way through (leave your backpack) to reach the anchors.

Location

Hike up Cranberry Meadows to a flat ledge up and left. Climb begins on the right side through steep dirt/ crumbly rock. You are aiming for the obvious right facing corner system, but will have to swim through low class 5 terrain to reach decent rock. It's suggested to belay from that initial ledge to avoid potential rock fall.

Protection

Standard trad rack, with doubles in 1-4 (can use 5). Rappel anchors along the route.

Photos

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