Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 335 ft (102 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Greg Barrett & Charles Kalinsky 2017|
|Page Views:||447 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Kalinsky on Apr 17, 2019|
Fun alpine climbing with excellent views of Kluane front range. 60 m ropes will get you up and down; you can rappel from all stations. It’s fairly clean, but freeze and thaw will make new crumble.
First two pitches were climbed bottom up, but low and behold all the loose rock spooked the first party to retreat. Two summers later, the group hiked up and around to clean the route from above. This made for a much safer (especially for the belayer) and amazing adventure!
First pitch, Half off House Plants, 28 m of adventure 5.6. Challenging to protect amonst the sand, soil and loose rock. But a must to get to the money pitches. Aim for a small ledge just right and below the obvious crack system.
Pitch 2, Chunder Gully, 24 m 5.8+. From the ledge follow the crack system up. Pull around a bulge (protect with gear 5”), and continue up pleasant crack system to a perch on the right.
Pitch 3, Chocolate Snot Rockets, 26 m 5.10-. Two cruxes with large gear. Climb easier terrain to a mash of rocks jammed in the crack. Pull a small roof, find jams and good edges within the off width. Second crux is steep and powerful, but delicate feet and creative jams will get you through. Aim left at the top of the crack for the anchor.
Pitch 4, Frosty Squeeze, 24 m 5.7. Climb right up the large gully to chock stone. Squeeze your way through (leave your backpack) to reach the anchors.