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Routes in (5) Little Three Finger Jack AKA The Alex Reed Memorial Wall
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Asian Persuasion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Country Rhoads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dance With the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Frogger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gravy Train S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Gravy-Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heart of Gold S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Japanese Steez S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Korean BBQ S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rot-Punkt Funk S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Run Reed Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Chris Hatzai |
| Page Views: | 1,711 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hatzai on Nov 1, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Start climbing up the seam on good holds. Climb through the 1st roof sequence pulling the lip on jugs. The next 3 roofs are where the business is. You're met with a hard move clearing or pulling over each roof section on the route. The crux is past the 3rd roof on the face and the redpoint crux (for me) was clearing the 4th roof.
MAKE SURE TO FEED OUT A GENEROUS AMOUNT OF SLACK CLIMBING THROUGH THE CRUX PAST THE 3rd ROOF! Falling through the crux and getting short roped causes the climber to fall into the roof at knee height. Drop the climber well below the roof for a clean fall!
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