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Routes in (5) Little Three Finger Jack AKA The Alex Reed Memorial Wall
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Asian Persuasion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Country Rhoads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dance With the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Frogger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gravy Train S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Gravy-Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heart of Gold S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Japanese Steez S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Korean BBQ S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rot-Punkt Funk S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Run Reed Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Chris Hatzai |
| Page Views: | 1,883 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hatzai on Nov 1, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: 2023 BRIDGE CLOSURE & Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The footbridge will be closed for replacement from August 14 - September 23, 2023
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Start climbing up the seam on good holds. Climb through the 1st roof sequence pulling the lip on jugs. The next 3 roofs are where the business is. You're met with a hard move clearing or pulling over each roof section on the route. The crux is past the 3rd roof on the face and the redpoint crux (for me) was clearing the 4th roof.
MAKE SURE TO FEED OUT A GENEROUS AMOUNT OF SLACK CLIMBING THROUGH THE CRUX PAST THE 3rd ROOF! Falling through the crux and getting short roped causes the climber to fall into the roof at knee height. Drop the climber well below the roof for a clean fall!
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