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Routes in (5) Little Three Finger Jack
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Asian Persuasion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Country Rhoads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dance With the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Frogger S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Gravy Train S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Gravy-Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heart of Gold S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Japanese Steez S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rot-Punkt Funk S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft |
| FA: | Chris Hatzai |
| Page Views: | 557 total · 148/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hatzai on Nov 1, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug
Details
The Monument Area is CLOSED for Golden Eagle nesting Feb 3-Aug 1, 2020
This is an annual closure that usually lasts from February to August. smithrock.com/seasonal-closures for updates.
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
This is an annual closure that usually lasts from February to August. smithrock.com/seasonal-closures for updates.
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
Description
Start climbing up the seam on good holds. Climb through the 1st roof sequence pulling the lip on jugs. The next 3 roofs are where the business is. You're met with a hard move clearing or pulling over each roof section on the route. The crux rests over the 3rd roof and the redpoint crux (for me) was clearing the 4th roof.
MAKE SURE TO FEED OUT A GENEROUS AMOUNT OF SLACK CLIMBING THROUGH THE CRUX PAST THE 3rd ROOF! Falling through the crux and getting short roped causes the climber to fall into the roof at knee height. Drop the climber well below the roof for a clean fall!
MAKE SURE TO FEED OUT A GENEROUS AMOUNT OF SLACK CLIMBING THROUGH THE CRUX PAST THE 3rd ROOF! Falling through the crux and getting short roped causes the climber to fall into the roof at knee height. Drop the climber well below the roof for a clean fall!
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