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Routes in (5) Little Three Finger Jack
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Country Rhoads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gravy Train S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Heart of Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft |
| FA: | FA Alan Collins, Bolted and prepped by Chris Hatzai |
| Page Views: | 129 total · 129/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Collins on Oct 6, 2019 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug
Details
This is an annual closure that usually lasts from February to August. Check the website for regularly updates. This is what it said in 2017...
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
Description
A great route on good rock with a heartbreaking crux at the top and varied climbing.
Start off on some 5.10+ climbing on some crumbly stone before you get to the good rock 3 bolts up. Work through multiple roofs and crux's separated by some decent rest. Good technique is just as necessary as overall strength, being that the climb has so many different styles of difficult climbing throughout the route. The actual crux comes up top passing the 2nd to last bolt on the near vertical slab. There is also a notable crux passing the 6th bolt.
Start off on some 5.10+ climbing on some crumbly stone before you get to the good rock 3 bolts up. Work through multiple roofs and crux's separated by some decent rest. Good technique is just as necessary as overall strength, being that the climb has so many different styles of difficult climbing throughout the route. The actual crux comes up top passing the 2nd to last bolt on the near vertical slab. There is also a notable crux passing the 6th bolt.
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