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Central Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 329 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Marcus Floyd on Oct 28, 2019 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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A large section in the middle of the crag is banned between March and July most years for nesting peregrine falcons. Check the BMC's Regional Access Database thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/vi… for the most up-to-date information
Description
This line is three different sections, each with a rest ledge and potential belay point if you wish to break it up into two or three pitches.
The first crux section options include either a zig zag crack through bulges, directly below the middle dihedral, or a right facing fist-sized dihedral crack, just around a few steps to the right. Larger cams work best to protect either two starts.
The second crux section is a wide left facing offwidth dihedral crack that takes some med to small protection in the back. I don't recommend trying to scale the face just right but that's is the mix of choices. Continue up the right side of a block above to gain a third rest or second belay point.
The third crux section is slightly easier than the first two sections and follows a small to med crack system that also sucks up the pro to easily protect.
Belay the follower at the top using a rap around a boulder and med cams. Hike down around the back and right between the two main wall exposures.
The first crux section options include either a zig zag crack through bulges, directly below the middle dihedral, or a right facing fist-sized dihedral crack, just around a few steps to the right. Larger cams work best to protect either two starts.
The second crux section is a wide left facing offwidth dihedral crack that takes some med to small protection in the back. I don't recommend trying to scale the face just right but that's is the mix of choices. Continue up the right side of a block above to gain a third rest or second belay point.
The third crux section is slightly easier than the first two sections and follows a small to med crack system that also sucks up the pro to easily protect.
Belay the follower at the top using a rap around a boulder and med cams. Hike down around the back and right between the two main wall exposures.
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