Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 35.77171, -106.37483
FA: A. Miller
Page Views: 832 total · 11/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Oct 26, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Beautiful corner stemming route. It starts on soft rock through 4 glue-in mega-bolts(don’t over-commit your feet onto anything) but moderate movement. The climbing really starts after the 2nd bolt with thoughtful stemming and small fingers in a corner. Work up to a great stem at the top of the corner where the dihedral scoops-back into a steeper curve, and from a magical left foot on an unlikely feature resembling 1/3 of a softball. Commit the last dihedral moves and find a better finger crack where glorious 5.11 climbing is your reward for another 50’ to the anchor.

The first ascent was done with just the first four bolts, and also a fixed wire that was strategically placed in a finger pod in a way that didn't gobble up the volume of this critical hold. Rather than have the gear be the crux, and have some manky old wire sticking out of the crux section, the 5th and 6th bolts were later added to make the climbing less heady, so the crux is now the climbing and not the gear. 

Thanks to Logan, Leslie, and Sarah for help equipping the bolts.

Location Suggest change

Far right end of ICP, just before Gold Medal Ribbon. Look for a bolt line emerging from a good ledge leading up a perfect stem corner. 

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts gets you to the changing corner moves. Bring doubles from 0.2 to 0.5, maybe one 0.75. 

The start of the route has soft rock through the 2nd bolt, which can make some nervous. You can stick slip the first two bolts or swing over from the anchor of Ice Cream Plant and clip them easily.

Photos

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