Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: A. Miller
Page Views: 68 total · 68/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Oct 26, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Beautiful corner stemming route. It starts on soft rock through 4 glue-in mega-bolts(don’t over-commit your feet onto anything) but moderate movement. The climbing really starts after the 4th bolt with thoughtful stemming and small fingers in a corner. Gear abounds but some of it requires techy stances to place well, and to fully visualize the placement, but lots of options for reasonably good pro. Work up to a great stem at the top of the corner where the dihedral scoops-back into a steeper curve, and from a magical left foot on an unlikely feature resembling 1/3 of a softball. Commit the last dihedral moves and find a better finger crack where glorious 5.11 climbing is your reward for another 40’ to the anchor.

Thanks to Leslie for help establishing the line, and to Logan for help equipping it.

Location

Far right end of ICP, just before Gold Medal Ribbon. Look for 4 bolts emerging from a good ledge leading up a perfect stem corner. First couple of bolts are on obviously easy terrain, which steepens through 4th bolt. 

Protection

4 bolts, and I left a pre-placed fixed wire at the upper crux(wrong gear here could gobble the finger slot). Bring doubles from 0.2/green C3 to 0.5, maybe one 0.75. Could also bring 0.1 piece. Pro can be tricky to place, but lots of options.

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