Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: A. Miller and L. Peterson
Page Views: 898 total · 13/month
Shared By: A Miller on Nov 26, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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How to earn your Gold Medal Ribbon Suggest change

  • This route has an A-0 pendulum move on it required to reach the splitter Ribbon crack. *

    This is one of the most aesthetic climbs in all of Capulin. Due to its position and the easily accessible photographer positioning, be sure to give someone your phone or camera while you are climbing this.

    To Access:
    Gain the base of the route by traversing an exposed but easy class 3-4 ledge system starting from below the route "Ice Cream Plant". Might be best to rope up for this,not because it’s particularly hard or scary, but it will allow you to organize the belay a little better. There are options for good finger and hand sized gear along the way if desired, but most will not need it. As you pass the last large leaning block, split by a nice hand crack, and before the bolts, consider leaving a couple red camalots in the crack as an anchor for the belayer. 
    To Climb:
    Start in a hand crack on the right side of a large leaning block below a bolt (soft rock here, hence the burly glue-in bolts). Step up to clip the first of three bolts, and climb some more easy terrain to clip the second. From here, tension across to the third bolt from which a short pendulum move gets you to a small foot stance and the crack. Tight hands soon leads to perfect hands which leads to wide hands, fists, and so on. 
    To descend, just lower to the ground. Or, re-trace the traverse across the ledge system. Fairly trivial either way. 60m rope should BARELY make it to the ground, aim for the climbers left where the ground is higher.

Location Suggest change

This Ribbon of crack is visible from pretty much every vantage point along the crag and will have you immediately asking “When do we get to climb that line?”  The climbing starts from the ledge on the east side of a leaning block of rock. Look for the bottom of 3 bolts, the belay stance is just below this. 

It is due south facing, getting first morning sun and staying sunny long after the rest of the crag goes into shade.  Cooler days, or late day sun is optimal for your send.

GMR is the last route on the wall, so walk to the end of the cliff where the bottom of the band of good welded-tuff gives way to soft ignimbrite deposits that are unclimbable.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a single rack from 0.5 to #5 camalots with double 4’s. If you climb confident in the 4-6" crack size, you are set; if not, bring an extra 4 or 5. Also 2 red camalots for the belay anchor. Optionally, a few tips pieces would protect the traverse across.

Bring at least 5 draws, but maybe 7 or 8, including for the anchor, are preferable. Also, might be good to have extendable 2' draws at least on the second bolt and first cam placement to smooth out the traverse pendulum.

Photos

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