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Gold Medal Ribbon
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Main Sector
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Bubblegum Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Butterscotch Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delirious T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Double Scoop T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gold Medal Ribbon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Half-Baked Alaska T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ice Cream Plant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ice Cream Truck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nonfat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rocky Road T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Salted Caramel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Vanilla Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waffle Cone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Z-nana Split T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | A. Miller and L. Peterson |
| Page Views: | 947 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Miller on Nov 26, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
How to earn your Gold Medal Ribbon
*This route has an A-0 pendulum move on it required to reach the splitter Ribbon crack. *
This is one of the most aesthetic climbs in all of Capulin. Due to its position and the easily accessible photographer positioning, be sure to give someone your phone or camera while you are climbing this.
To Access:
Gain the base of the route by traversing an exposed but easy class 3-4 ledge system starting from below the route "Ice Cream Plant". Might be best to rope up for this,not because it’s particularly hard or scary, but it will allow you to organize the belay a little better. There are a few bolts along the way and options for good finger and hand sized gear if desired, but most will not need it. Arrive at a two bolt belay at the base of GMR!
To Climb:
Start in a hand crack on the right side of a large leaning block below a bolt (soft rock here, hence the burly glue-in bolts). Step up to clip the first of three bolts, and climb some more easy terrain to clip the second. From here, tension across to the third bolt from which a short pendulum move gets you to a small foot stance and the crack. Tight hands soon leads to perfect hands which leads to wide hands, fists, and so on.To descend, just lower to the belay with a 60m rope. When done, you can re-trace the traverse across the ledge system or short rap to the ground with an easy scramble back up to the crag.
Location
It is due south facing, getting first morning sun and staying sunny long after the rest of the crag goes into shade. Cooler days, or late day sun is optimal for your send.
GMR is the last route on the wall, so walk to the end of the cliff where the bottom of the band of good welded-tuff gives way to soft ignimbrite deposits that are unclimbable.
Protection
Bring a single rack from 0.5 to #5 camalots with double 4’s. If you climb confident in the 4-6" crack size, you are set; if not, bring an extra 4 or 5.
Bring at least 5 draws, but maybe 7 or 8, including for the anchor, are preferable. Also, might be good to have extendable 2' draws at least on the second bolt and first cam placement to smooth out the traverse pendulum.
A note on the 3 bolts placed on the route: we used 14" long, 1/2" threaded rod and welded them in with Sika epoxy. They are pretty robust. We let them set up and came back the next day to place the hangers and nuts. A little epoxy expanded out of the hole when it set, and its nearly impossible to clean it out of the threads, so some of the hangers may not sit perfectly flush with the wall and could spin some. But this should have no bearing on their strength, as long as the nut is fixed on the threaded rod.
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