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New Mexico
> Jemez Mountains…
> Capulin Canyon…
> Capulin Canyon
> Ice Cream Parlor
> Main Sector
Nonfat
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Main Sector
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Bubblegum Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Butterscotch Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delirious T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Double Scoop T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gold Medal Ribbon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Half-Baked Alaska T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ice Cream Plant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ice Cream Truck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nonfat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rocky Road T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Salted Caramel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Vanilla Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waffle Cone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | A. Miller |
| Page Views: | 924 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | A Miller on Sep 12, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This crack requires a bit of power and focus. A fun lieback start gets you to the base of first crux where you can easily shove a bomber red and or green C3 high into the seam. A couple of big moves get you to the base of a steep finger crack, and a mantle onto a ledge at base of dihedral. Make sure you have something close to a double set of C3s remaining on your rack.
Location
Right end of the Main sector, in the shared alcove with Chocolate Factory. Look for a tips crack with a few good hand pods near the bottom. this leads to a cool finger crack and then a right-facing corner above.
Protection
Bring at least a triple set from #0 to 0.3, plus a couple finger sizes and two #2s for the pods at the start. I didn't really find a need for the 000 (gray C3), but one could probably place it somewhere. You want something close to double set from yellow down to purple C3 remaining when you get to base of corner.
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