Type: Trad, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: A. Miller
Page Views: 669 total · 15/month
Shared By: A Miller on Sep 12, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: April 26, 2022 - Jemez Mountains closure order Details

Description

This crack requires a bit of power and focus. A fun lieback start gets you to the base of first crux where you can easily shove a bomber red and or green C3 high into the seam. A couple of big moves get you to the base of a steep finger crack, and a mantle onto a ledge at base of dihedral. Make sure you have something close to a double set of C3s remaining on your rack.

Location

Right end of the Main sector, in the shared alcove with Chocolate Factory. Look for a tips crack with a few good hand pods near the bottom. this leads to a cool finger crack and then a right-facing corner above.

Protection

Bring at least a triple set from #0 to 0.3, plus a couple finger sizes and two #2s for the pods at the start. I didn't really find a need for the 000 (gray C3), but one could probably place it somewhere. You want something close to double set from yellow down to purple C3 remaining when you get to base of corner.

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