Nick Route, West Face

On the West face, look for twin cracks that split a face. There is a chimney to the left and a chimney in a dihedral to the right.

Pitch 1. Start in a chimney for 15 feet. If you are uncomfortable climbing 15 feet of 5.8 chimney off the deck, bring a #6 Camalot. Then climb enjoyable twin cracks for about 50 feet. The rock starts getting chossy and the moves get harder. I placed a #0 purple Metolius TCU and took a hang then hang dogged up the next few moves. If you trust small cams on soft rock, it probably goes at 5.10-.  Gain a 4th Class chimney, and go up to two old pins and a bolt, 140 feet.

Pitch 2.  Go up the obvious crack that diagonals left and then diagonals right, 90 feet, good fun, 5.8+.

Rap the route. On the second rappel, if you don't want to bring two ropes, you could bring a 40 foot piece of rope and extend the anchors to the top of the twin cracks, or maybe find a bush in the chimney to rap off of.

From the Gateway General Store, drive East 2 miles to a dirt road with a highway machinery shed. Drive up the road about a mile and park. Walk up 4 wheeler roads for about another mile. Head towards the Trident up gullies and ridges. Go around the south end of the formation to the West side. This takes about 2 hours.

Two Metolius TCUs #0 purple and two #1 blue, two Camalots 0.3 to 4, maybe a #6, and one 70

meter rope.