The Breathing Stone
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 47.58104, -56.74911 |
| FA: | David Bruneau/Ania Polak |
| Page Views: | 988 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | David Bruneau on Sep 16, 2019 |
| Admins: | David Bruneau |
Description
A nice line leading up the tallest part of the cliff. The first pitch is excellent, and the next two are easier but good climbing up surprisingly moderate rock. The whole climb is well protected.
P1, 5.10a, 30m: climb obvious corner-flake feature 5 feet right of the hole in the cliff. Continue straight up a short layback crack to a bolt, which protects some insecure face climbing (crux) straight up to a ledge. Continue easily right and up to a 2 bolt rappel anchor. The climbing on this pitch is excellent, and would make a nice single pitch objective after the ferry gets in.
P2, 5.8, 30m: there are two left-facing corners above the belay. Climb the corner on the right for 3m until the climbing gets more difficult, then step left to the other corner using good holds. Climb this corner past a hollow but seemingly solid flake until you are standing on top of the flake. Traverse right along the top of the flake, then continue up and right into another obvious dihedral. Continue up this corner past a short steep section that brings you back left to a gear belay stance with good cracks. Use long slings and don't forget to protect your second!
P3, 5.7, 30m: Follow obvious vertical cracks with great holds and gear to a big ledge with blueberry bushes. Belay here (gear belay) or link with the next easy pitch.
P4, easy 5th, 15+m: Follow any of the obvious paths up and belay off gear near the phone tower. I went up the slab above the belay, but an ugly chimney option also exists...
Descend by continuing east for less than 100m until you intersect with the painted yellow trail blazes marking the Friar Trail, and continue along the trail southwards to town, passing close to the base of the cliff. Should take about 20 minutes to get from the top to the base of the cliff if you find the trail quickly.



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