North Face Bypass

Paiute's North Face is one of the more imposing obstacles on the traverse of the continental divide between Buchanan Pass and Pawnee Pass, but there's a fairly easy way to get past it.

From "Algonquin" (Point 12,574' on the USGS topo map), head south, staying mostly on the ridge crest. Drop down to a notch at 12,100' (a few 4th class moves). Climb out of the notch, and cross over to the west side of the ridge, skirting below the top layer of crags. Keep traversing at about 12,300' around grassy scree bowls on the west side, a hundred to two hundred feet below the ridge crest, bypassing Point 12,462'. Finally come to a vertical dropoff about 150' below the ridgeline. Take a rubbly horizontal break left (east) towards a notch at 12,500'. The break is exposed and with some loose rocks, but for the most part, there are solid holds available (exposed 3rd class). The horizontal break will deposit you about 50' below the 12,500' notch.

Head up the clean rock scoop to the base of Paiute’s north-facing, triangular headwall. Traverse right to the skyline (3rd class). Immediately around the corner to the south is a shallow alcove with a short, southwest-facing dihedral to the left. Take the dihedral (5.5), then follow clean flakes to easier ground to the summit.

From the top of the rock scoop, it's also possible to traverse left and bypass the headwall on that side. We didn't go that way, but according to others who've done so, this is only 3rd Class.

From Buchanan Pass, hike south past Sawtooth Mountain to the summit of Algonquin.

None required.