Ghost Dancer Couloir
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Paiute Peak
|Ghost Dancer Couloir|
|Type:||Alpine, 1200 ft|
|FA:||Bob Bliss and J. Herrington, August 7, 1993?|
|Page Views:||932 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Dougald MacDonald on Jun 7, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the central couloir on the big, steep northeast face of Paiute Peak. The face is about 1,500 feet high. Jack Roberts and I started on a snow-free bench on the left side of the face and climbed about 1,200 vertical feet on June 6, 2009. We started late, because of a very long approach, and soft snow allowed us to kick steps unroped up most of the couloir. The couloir appears to end at a large, ominous headwall below the top, but a hidden, six-foot-wide slot snakes up to the left and pops out just a few vertical feet below the summit. We belayed one pitch in this slot for a short step of ice, and then continued simul-climbing to the top.
I haven't found any record of an ascent of this face, but it's a big target and I presume it may have been climbed at some point. Nonetheless, Jack and I feel this great route deserves a name, and we propose the Ghost Dancer Couloir. The climb was excellent, with good snow right to the summit on June 6. By mid-June it would not be nearly as enjoyable.
See more info and photos from the climb at http://themountainworld.blogspot.com/2009/06/ghost-dancers.html.