Type: Ice, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 45.37323, -64.92933
FA: Greg Hughes and Luc Gallant, March 2019
Page Views: 598 total · 7/month
Shared By: Greg Hughes on Jul 18, 2019
Admins: Will Bland, Greg Hughes, Will Sarty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

One of the best climbs in the park. Wild features, sustained and technical climbing, stunning position. A classic in every sense.
Pitch 1 - Climb the steep curtain off the beach. Undercut on the left but there should always be something touching down on the right. Move up and left, top out on a massive sloping ledge. Build a screw anchor somewhere up and right out of ice fall range.
Pitch 2 - Begin up the steep column underneath the umbrella roofs above. The line continues up then slightly left to find the most reasonable path out of the umbrellas and to the top. Be very careful where you place screws. Most of the protectable ice is not more than a few centimeters thick. You could also sling some columns for pro.

Location Suggest change

2.5 k north of Big Bald Brook. Find the amphitheater and drop in from either side. You could also rap to the beach at low tide on one of the nearby routes and walk to the base. 

Protection Suggest change

A rack of screws. Tree anchor.

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