Type: Sport, 720 ft (218 m), 8 pitches
FA: Luis 'Mac' Carlos García, Bernardo Ezeta, Mathias Ape
Page Views: 1,230 total · 32/month
Shared By: Nathan Paluck on Apr 14, 2019
Admins: Nate Ball, Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Very fun multipitch. The description below is for the first four pitches only: many climbers forgo the final four pitches because of the suposedly meandering, not-worth-it rappel down. Plus, the fourth pitch, up an eroded water channel with radical, spiky features on each side, is truly the star and reason for doing King Kong.

Here are the grades as given in the local guidebooks. Most would agree they are very soft:
5.10c, 10b, 10b, 10c, 5.7, 10b, 10a, 4th class.

Here is my take on the first four pitches, using grades consistent with central Mexican sport climbing areas:

1st pitch: 5.10a. Start off with a small boulder problem between bolt 1 and 3. Solid, fluid climbing thereon.

2nd: 5.10a. A small ledge early on, followed by crimpy, vertical face climbing makes for an interesting pitch. Then a scramble up to the most comfortable belay ledges of the 4 pitches. Watch for the big nopal cactus on your left when rapping down!

3rd: 5.8. Relaxed, highly featured climbing.

4th. 5.10a. This is the King Kong pitch. Go up an eroded, water slide-looking feature, with sharp, funky holds on each side. Unique, gorgeous rock. Makes it all worth it. From here, you can continue four more pitches to the top of the so-called King Kong buttress. Anyone who has completed this, please add your observations!

You will rap down the route. Apparently some people have rapped down the first four pitches with 60 m rope. Local guideboks say 70 m is required, so better safe than sorry. I have always used 70m.

Location


From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rouck right below three close bolts.

Protection

14 quickdraws, 70 meter rope

Photos