Type: Sport, 720 ft (218 m), 7 pitches
FA: Rob Powell, Edna Calvo, Moises Hernandez, Miguel de Icaza, Jan 2016
Page Views: 579 total · 23/month
Shared By: Nathan Paluck on Apr 9, 2019
Admins: Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Unique, adventurous-feeling multipitch route that gets you to the top of the so-called King King buttress. It offers a variety of difficulty and style of climbing. Gorgeous views throughout.

All grades here are as given in local guide books.

5.5 approach: Use a rope! Slab climbing up slippery lichen-covered rock to the start of the first pitch. Feels more like a scary 5.7!

1st pitch: 5.12a/b. 35m. Technical, balancy climbing on an often dirty route. After the first bolt, go to the left-most bolts.

2nd: 5.8, 35 m. A very fun climb up a smoth water-eroded channel with huge holds on either side.

3rd: 5.8, 20 m. More sharp, large feature climbing. Arrive to a large dirt belay ledge.

4th: 5.8, 20 m. Small move that leads to a scramble up to the next belay ledge.

5th: 5.11a, 20m. Balancy, vertical route with fun moves.

6th: 5.10a, 25 m. First several bolts is crimpy climbing on almost vertical face, then moves onto large featured climbing.

7th: 5.9, 40 m. Large features, easy last pitch. When reaching the dirty scramble part (with large nopal cactus), follow the metal cable to the left. Pass the first anchor to top out (there is anchor with rap ring and chain on top).

Rappel: Though the last pitch is 40 meters, there is a locking carabiner and link on two bolts at the bottom of the dirt scramble that can be used safely to split the 7th pitch into two rappels.

Location

From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. The 5.5 approach is the obvious ramp-like rock. Up the ramp, there are single-pitch routes along the right wall, and Día del Cactus is the very last route on the right at the top of the ramp. There are two sets of anchor bolts. 

Protection

15 quickdraws, nice to have a couple long draws but not required. 70 m rope.

Photos

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