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> Queretaro
> Peña de Bernal
> Cara Norte (N Face)
El Día del Cactus
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 7
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Routes in Cara Norte (North Face)
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El Día del Cactus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Godzilla S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King Kong S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Puerco Bicicletero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 720 ft (218 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | Rob Powell, Edna Calvo, Moises Hernandez, Miguel de Icaza, Jan 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,368 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Paluck on Apr 9, 2019 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Unique, adventurous-feeling multipitch route that gets you to the top of the so-called King King buttress. It offers a variety of difficulty and style of climbing. Gorgeous views throughout.
All grades here are as given in local guide books.
5.5 approach: Use a rope! Slab climbing up slippery lichen-covered rock to the start of the first pitch. Feels more like a scary 5.7!
1st pitch: 5.12a/b. 35m. Technical, balancy climbing on an often dirty route. After the first bolt, go to the left-most bolts.
2nd: 5.8, 35 m. A very fun climb up a smoth water-eroded channel with huge holds on either side.
3rd: 5.8, 20 m. More sharp, large feature climbing. Arrive to a large dirt belay ledge.
4th: 5.8, 20 m. Small move that leads to a scramble up to the next belay ledge.
5th: 5.11a, 20m. Balancy, vertical route with fun moves.
6th: 5.10a, 25 m. First several bolts is crimpy climbing on almost vertical face, then moves onto large featured climbing.
7th: 5.9, 40 m. Large features, easy last pitch. When reaching the dirty scramble part (with large nopal cactus), follow the metal cable to the left. Pass the first anchor to top out (there is anchor with rap ring and chain on top).
Rappel: Though the last pitch is 40 meters, there is a locking carabiner and link on two bolts at the bottom of the dirt scramble that can be used safely to split the 7th pitch into two rappels.
All grades here are as given in local guide books.
5.5 approach: Use a rope! Slab climbing up slippery lichen-covered rock to the start of the first pitch. Feels more like a scary 5.7!
1st pitch: 5.12a/b. 35m. Technical, balancy climbing on an often dirty route. After the first bolt, go to the left-most bolts.
2nd: 5.8, 35 m. A very fun climb up a smoth water-eroded channel with huge holds on either side.
3rd: 5.8, 20 m. More sharp, large feature climbing. Arrive to a large dirt belay ledge.
4th: 5.8, 20 m. Small move that leads to a scramble up to the next belay ledge.
5th: 5.11a, 20m. Balancy, vertical route with fun moves.
6th: 5.10a, 25 m. First several bolts is crimpy climbing on almost vertical face, then moves onto large featured climbing.
7th: 5.9, 40 m. Large features, easy last pitch. When reaching the dirty scramble part (with large nopal cactus), follow the metal cable to the left. Pass the first anchor to top out (there is anchor with rap ring and chain on top).
Rappel: Though the last pitch is 40 meters, there is a locking carabiner and link on two bolts at the bottom of the dirt scramble that can be used safely to split the 7th pitch into two rappels.
Location
From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. The 5.5 approach is the obvious ramp-like rock. Up the ramp, there are single-pitch routes along the right wall, and Día del Cactus is the very last route on the right at the top of the ramp. There are two sets of anchor bolts.
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