All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Barker Dam Area > Rockworks Rock

Keys Ranch Road

Name: Keys Ranch Road
Rating: 2.7

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Rockworks Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	A-Jill-Ity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Easy Looker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Flaming Arrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Keys Ranch Road S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Kickoff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Prairie Schooner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rain Dance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Rockwork Orange T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Snow Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type:	Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,744 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Brian Allen on Apr 9, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

nps.gov/jotr/parknews/dam_v…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details

The far right side of this wall is closed due to the presence of Native American rock art.

Description

Came across this climb in Todd G's sport guide. Interesting route and worth doing, especially on a busy day as I don't think many people wander back here.

The first pitch has a fifth class move passing the first bolt and then an easy traverse on a ledge passing some bolts and pins. There is a bolted belay just past the ledge. The first pitch appears to just get you where the climbing starts.

The second pitch contains some adventurous and interesting climbing (though quite grainy in areas). Traverse out on a good 3"-4" ledge with bolts every 15 or so feet. After passing about five bolts the ledge begins to disappear and you make your way up and right onto the slabby face passing 3 more bolts until you reach the anchor, a variety of paths exist.

As mentioned in the guide book, after the the 6th bolt you'll need to start to head up to the anchor. There is another bolt out to the right and slightly down that is part of another route and almost had me suckered into going that way.

Rapped off final anchor with a 70m with plenty rope to spare. Deposits in a small canyon, scramble over the boulder out to the left to exit.

Location

Unlike the other climbs listed here on Rockworks rock, this climb is on the west face. We approached from the Echo Rock parking lot. Walk around to the east side of Echo rock heading north, passing Little Hunk on your right, then turn east after passing the end of Little Hunk. Look to the NE and you'll see Idyllwild dome (large and low angle). Walk to the south of this dome and after passing the southern point turn north. The west face of Rockworks rock will be on your right.

Hike to the northern tip of the valley between the two formations and scramble up and right to find the beginning of the climb.

You could also approach from the Gunsmoke area by walking 300-400 yard NNW and heading for the gap between Idyllwild dome and Rockworks rock.