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Reverse the Curse
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 10
votes
Routes in Sandcrag
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A World Unworthy (project) S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Chicanery T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flesh Eating Newts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Momentary Afflictions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Routes and Old Friends T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pariah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Polonius T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Redeem the Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reverse the Curse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rhodocide T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Social Distancing T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 39.60408, -79.80964 |
| FA: | Andrew Leich, May 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,473 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Brendan1 Leich on Mar 25, 2019 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, D E Griffith, Ray Weber |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Technically, this area is owned by a coal company
Details
This area has not run into issues thus far, as locals consider it part of Snake Hill WMA, and frequently hike here to admire the rock formations and search for Native American artifacts.
Description
There are plenty of harder, more striking lines, but none that capture the absurdity of rock climbing more appropriately. Share the first two bolts of Chicanery (the crack that ascends the right side of the buttress), but before clipping the third bolt, traverse left to the blunt arête, passing the infamous “shadow match,” a move seldom done except in deep winter gym sessions and circus tricks. Try not to let your giddy giggles punt you off as you desperately pull over the arête, then dance up immaculate holds on consistent technical climbing. There are holds right where you need them. If you don’t like this route, you need to quit rock climbing.
Beta video: youtube.com/watch?v=8l0258V…
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