Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Andrew Leich, May 2018
Page Views: 220 total · 28/month
Shared By: Brendan1 on Mar 25, 2019
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Technically, this area is owned by a coal company Details

Description

6 stars? There are plenty of harder, more striking lines, but none that capture the absurdity of rock climbing more appropriately.  Share the first two bolts of Chicanery (the crack that ascends the right side of the buttress), but before clipping the third bolt, traverse left to the blunt arête, passing the infamous “shadow match,” a move seldom done except in deep winter gym sessions and circus tricks. Try not to let your giddy giggles punt you off as you desperately pull over the arête, then dance up immaculate holds on consistent technical climbing.  There are holds are right where you need them.  If you don’t like this route, you need to quit rock climbing.

Beta video: youtube.com/watch?v=8l0258V…

Location

This line ascends the left side of Andrew’s Playhouse, the 10 foot wide, 75 foot buttress that juts out of the ground like a giant refrigerator.

Protection

6 Bolts and shuts, #3 and #0.75 Camalots for runout at top

Photos

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