Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Sport, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Kevin Keith & Bill Cramer|
|Page Views:||914 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Gregory Cooper on Mar 19, 2019|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman|
P1: (5.10a.) Basically a highball boulder problem past three bolts. First bolt is a bit off the ground so make sure you can make the move before becoming committed. Follow the slab up to two bolted anchor that is shared with Duck Itch and The Natural Side. Staying just left of the bolts makes for nice movements.
P2: (5.9). From the anchor climb up easy ramp to first bolt on the middle of the face. Exposed steep lay-backing into deep flaky seams. find the weird toe jam to make the last move. Two bolts, with option of gear. (I placed a #3 at the crack on top, but not needed)
You have two options for anchors, (1) use the bolted anchors on the top of Lust for Life, and place a #1 or #2 as your first piece to protect a severe fall onto your rope/anchor, or (2) build an anchor in the crack that holds BDs #.75-#4.
I'd personally give this pitch a 5.10 rating
P3: (5.10b) This is what you came for and the namesake of the route. Dig deep into your psyche and leap across the 7ft chasm and catch the flake. Move up past two bolts on another boulder problem. Anchor requires gear to 3" This is the front cover of Kevin Keith's "The Granite Dells Climbing Guide."
Once you and your partner(s) make it to the top you can rappel off the anchors on the South facing wall .
If you need to bail before making it up the third pitch there is 3rd class walk-off or multiple anchors to rap off. However, I wouldn't suggest rapping off the flat anchors located near the the little bath top formation.
Overall you really don't need to bring much on this climb. If doing it in 3 pitches than you don't need more than 4 draws. Make sure some of them are alpine. A small rack of medium BD cams should be fin, no nuts needed. A slimmed down multi pitch rack should suffice.