Type: Sport, 5 pitches
GPS: 14.83137, 100.75471
FA: Kiran Moghe, Will Patera 2019 (Bolted by Cheang Qing Xin and Kanita Fai)
Page Views: 1,528 total · 18/month
Shared By: Kiran M on Jan 27, 2019
Admins: Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon
Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Explore this route in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Previous Next
Warning Access Issue: Access through Buddhist Temple ****PLEASE READ - SCROLL BELOW FOR THAI**** DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Updated topo since QX added additional bolts. Fun route, worth doing as the crux pitches are fantastic

Pitch 1 – 5c

Climb the same start as Corcavado (ignoring the two ‘intermediate anchors’) until you step right onto the nice block belay stance.

Pitch 2 – 6b (+)

Step left from the anchor to pull some fun but easy face moves to the bright new slings. Clip these and traverse right clipping fixed nuts / slinging trees as you go. This leads you to a beautiful orange corner. Stem and finger lock your way up to the anchor up and right.

Pitch 3 – 6c (+)

From the belay, go right through the cactus shrubs and bolts / nuts appear. Go up easy ground until the rock gets crimpy and vertical. Fun and techy crux here. Hard crimping leads to a very fun gaston-y traverse left and gymnastic throw to a jug. Continue up to the anchor at a nice ledge.

Pitch 4 – 7a

Pitch is now well protected!  Traverse up and left to a horn below the roof where you can get a no hands rest. Clip the bolt and commit to some wildly exposed lie-backing. Follow the bolt line up and right fighting the pump to the anchors

Pitch 5 – 5c

Traversing right off the belay into a hand crack. Extend each of the draws you see to avoid crippling rope drag. Continue up through an easy chimney (avoiding the death block inside). Either stop at the anchors above or continue ahead to a final bolt below the summit where you can unrope and top out (4th class)

Rap Corcavado. 70m is just fine

Location Suggest change

Same start as Corcavado

Protection Suggest change

13 draws + 3 long runners + long pants

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

Topo of Pacman
Topo of Pacman
 2
Kelly entering the crux on P4. Fun tufa moves followed by a nice seated rest before getting psyched for the rest of the exposed climbing.
Kelly entering the crux on P4. Fun tufa moves f…
 1
P2 after the Cactus Traverse, climb this stemming beautiful corner. Hand jams, gastons, fingers, laybacks and a mantle. The anchor ledge has been cleaned up but please take care when topping out the ledge. Might still have some loose stuff. Fav Pitch!
P2 after the Cactus Traverse, climb this stemmi…
 0
P 3 After the Cactus Traverse pitch, traverse right on the ledge and clip the sling on the cactus. Continue moving up right where you find mixture of fixed nuts and bolts. Business starts where the slab ends.Fun technical climbing into powerful moves
P 3 After the Cactus Traverse pitch, traverse r…
 0
P5. From the ledge move right, follow the line up the first 3 bolts and move into the chimney on the left after. 3 more bolts lead you to the anchor straight up from the pillar.
P5. From the ledge move right, follow the line…
 0
Top of Pitch 4. Stay on the bolt line where the rocks are cleaner. If you stray, be ready for a surprise!
Top of Pitch 4. Stay on the bolt line where the…
 0
Kelly on the crux pitch of Pac man. The 11d pitch is now a safe 35m pitch with 13bolts.
Kelly on the crux pitch of Pac man. The 11d pit…
 0

5 Comments

Sort by: Oldest Drop down
Newest Oldest Popular
loading