Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Khao Chin Lae

8c+ S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anchor Spanker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Corcavado S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
F*cking Balance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fakir, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High and Low S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nok Kao (นกเขาไม่ใช่นกเรา) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Obelisk S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pete's Retreat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pratimakam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waltz for a Lovely Wife S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wan Pimai S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ben Grasser and Thammarat (Ong), 2004
Page Views: 187 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tao Techakanon on Nov 27, 2016
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Access through Buddhist Temple Details

Description

According to the topo provided here,

namphapayai.camp/pdf/topo-l…

the route was FA'ed in 2004. However, I find some pitch description to be quite inaccurate. Most of the pitches are bolted but I would recommend anyone trying this route to have basic trad/gear placement skill due to some "sketchy" and hard to find bolts.

Pitch 1 and 2 (5.10) - I recommend combining the first 2 pitches. This entire pitch(s) is bolted. About 10-12 QD if my memory serves. Climb pass the first anchor and around the small roof passing several bolts to gain an 'ok' belay. Long slings are helpful to manage rope drag (110-ish feet)

Pitch 3 (5.10+) - One of the money pitch. Pull/Stem pass the roof and continue straight up. Fixed pros on this pitch are questionable so supplemental trad gears might be recommended for some. Bailing after this pitch will be very difficult due to overhanging nature. Hanging belays :( (100 feet)

Pitch 4 (5.9+) - The topo above stated that this pitch is fully bolted. Unfortunately, I'll have to disagree as we were only able to find 2 bolts (instead of 10). Good news is there are places for pros if you know where to look. Traverse left from the belay and boldly climb a semi-runout face then traverse left again to find a belay with a nice flat ledge. (90 feet)

Pitch 5 (5.10+) - In my opinion, the best pitch on the entire route. Tape up if you enjoy jamming. Strenuous face climbing with occasional "Jams" bring you to huge ledge with plenty of bushwacking to find the next anchor. (100+feet)

Pitch 6 (5.7) - The topo said this pitch is fully trad but I found 3 bolts. Easy/chill climbing until you find a good ledge. I was not able to find a bolted anchor (natural belay). (100 feet)

Pitch 7 (5.4-5.5) - best to simul-climb/solo to the summit.

All in all a great route. If it wasn't for the excessive vegetation, this route would be 4 stars. For anyone who is bored of single pitch sport climbing around Bangkok and is looking for a full day/value adventure climbing, I'd recommend this route.

Descent - rap down route "Corcovado". A single 70m rope can get you down but please be sure to knot the ends. 3 raps to the ground with double 70m ropes.

Location

Approach the temple main area (10-15 mins hike). Once you arrive at the cliff turn right to see a Thai flag hanging from a tree. The route start there.

Protection

About 12 QDs, plenty of long slings, single rack from .4 Camalots to #3, set of stoppers.

a Machete would be helpful

Photos

Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10d
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10d
Additional descent beta:

Supposedly, there is a way to hike down from the summit if you don't fancy the raps. I have never done it but have been told the hike will take 35-45 minutes (assuming you don't get lost). Nov 27, 2016

More About Nok Kao (นกเขาไม่ใช่นกเรา)

Printer-Friendly