Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft|
|FA:||Jim Zook, Dan Langmade 1982|
|Page Views:||46 total · 46/month|
|Shared By:||sean peters on Jan 11, 2019|
|Admins:||Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland|
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Good chimney route and decent protection with some loose funk. A nice introduction to Superstition chimneys. Enter chimney and remain inside until it ends on a pillar like detachment. The chimney gets wider near the top and good face and feet features on either wall are helpful Bridge the short gap that protects with a small cam and scramble to summit. The climb never feels difficult or desperate, maybe more 5.6 than 5.7.
Currently the only route on this formation. Locate obvious chimney on the northeast side. From the Treasure Loop Trail, it takes less than 10 minutes to reach the route with minimal bushwhacking. This is also the most northernmost tower of the Bandito cluster and the one closest to The Hand-Prong complex.