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Sizzle Lean
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Dave Daly, Gerry Jessuran and Deb Castro (Aug 2, 2006) |
Page Views: | 659 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Dave Daly on Dec 18, 2018 |
Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Pitch 1: Start up the middle of the apron, following three bolts to a 2-bolted chained anchor (5.8, 110'). There are a few options for gear (small cams and nuts, including knob tie-offs) near the top of the pitch. Some folks may feel this first pitch to be a bit runout. The FA was done on a hot day, making for some insecure frictioning.
Pitch 2: From the chained anchors, head up and slightly left on knobby features to the first bolt. At this point, the knobs disappear and its pure friction. Clip the second bolt and gun for a big overlap (pro: cams to .4). Pass over the overlap and climb the easy 5.6 slab above to a deep recess. Belay from here on gear (pro to #3). OPTIONAL: one can continue out of the recess and to the left to join up with the 'thankless' 3rd pitch of 'Funnel Runnel' (yes, there is a 3rd yet short pitch of FR!). This pitch is protected by a bolt while doing a stretchy reach across of a steep recess.
Walk off to the right to get back down to the base. Or simply do the first pitch (5.8) and rap from the chains
Pitch 2: From the chained anchors, head up and slightly left on knobby features to the first bolt. At this point, the knobs disappear and its pure friction. Clip the second bolt and gun for a big overlap (pro: cams to .4). Pass over the overlap and climb the easy 5.6 slab above to a deep recess. Belay from here on gear (pro to #3). OPTIONAL: one can continue out of the recess and to the left to join up with the 'thankless' 3rd pitch of 'Funnel Runnel' (yes, there is a 3rd yet short pitch of FR!). This pitch is protected by a bolt while doing a stretchy reach across of a steep recess.
Walk off to the right to get back down to the base. Or simply do the first pitch (5.8) and rap from the chains
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