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Sizzle Lean

5.9 PG13, Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Dave Daly, Gerry Jessuran and Deb Castro (Aug 2, 2006)
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Lost Eagle > Apron

Description

Pitch 1:  Start up the middle of the apron, following three bolts to a 2-bolted chained anchor (5.8, 110'). There are a few options for gear (small cams and nuts, including knob tie-offs) near the top of the pitch. Some folks may feel this first pitch to be a bit runout. The FA was done on a hot day, making for some insecure frictioning.

Pitch 2:  From the chained anchors, head up and slightly left on knobby features to the first bolt. At this point, the knobs disappear and its pure friction. Clip the second bolt and gun for a big overlap (pro: cams to .4). Pass over the overlap and climb the easy 5.6 slab above to a deep recess. Belay from here on gear (pro to #3). OPTIONAL: one can continue out of the recess and to the left to join up with the 'thankless' 3rd pitch of 'Funnel Runnel' (yes, there is a 3rd yet short pitch of FR!). This pitch is protected by a bolt while doing a stretchy reach across of a steep recess.

Walk off to the right to get back down to the base. Or simply do the first pitch (5.8) and rap from the chains

Location

'Sizzle Lean' is located 20' right of 'Funnel Runnel'.

Protection

- Quickdraws
- Pro to #3

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gerry Jessuran leading Pitch 2 during the first ascent of 'Sizzle Lean' (5.9 PG13). This is the definitive crux of the route, by going for the overlap above.
[Hide Photo] Gerry Jessuran leading Pitch 2 during the first ascent of 'Sizzle Lean' (5.9 PG13). This is the definitive crux of the route, by going for the overlap above.
Dave Daly on the first ascent of 'Sizzle Lean' (5.9, 2 pitches)
[Hide Photo] Dave Daly on the first ascent of 'Sizzle Lean' (5.9, 2 pitches)