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Routes in Apron
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Bird is the Word S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Five Amigos T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Funnel Runnel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Momma's Little Fledgling S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Naval Eagle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sizzle Lean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tales from the Wadi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Daly, Nate Durrant, Roger Hayashi, Gerry Jessuran and Leo Miner (Sept 2009) |
| Page Views: | 410 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Daly on Dec 18, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Access may be closed
Details
Many areas in The Southern Yosemite area including Shuteye have access roads that may be closed due to the recent 2020 fire season. Check with the local Forrest service before heading out there as you may get turned around at a locked gate and waste a day heading somewhere else.
Description
Pitch 1: Start at a thin crack that eventually peters out to a seam (small RP's and blue/green Aliens helpful). Clip a bolt above the seam and work up to the 2nd bolt (.10c). Pass the 2nd bolt and move up and left toward a crack above. Clip the 3rd bolt, while doing a combination of friction stem moves to the crack (pro: #2 Camelot). Pull through the crack and into easier terrain (5.6, 110'). Belay on gear (pro to #4).
Pitch 2: Continue up the left to right slanting crack to the top of the far left side of the Gold Buttress. Once at the buttress, make a steep yet easy series of moves on good knobby features (110'). Belay at the the notch (pro to #1 and slings). Walk off right and down slabs to the right side of Lost Eagle to return to the base.
Pitch 2: Continue up the left to right slanting crack to the top of the far left side of the Gold Buttress. Once at the buttress, make a steep yet easy series of moves on good knobby features (110'). Belay at the the notch (pro to #1 and slings). Walk off right and down slabs to the right side of Lost Eagle to return to the base.
Location
This route starts on the far right side of the apron and 40' left of the Gold Buttress.
NOTE: There is a 7-bolt route to the left of 'Five Amigos' (approx 25') called 'Touch Of Grey' (5.10+, 115'). 'Touch Of Grey' shares a chained anchor with an .11a/b top rope and the 5.7 off-width crack to the far left.
NOTE: There is a 7-bolt route to the left of 'Five Amigos' (approx 25') called 'Touch Of Grey' (5.10+, 115'). 'Touch Of Grey' shares a chained anchor with an .11a/b top rope and the 5.7 off-width crack to the far left.
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