La Ula

This route is serious . . . seriously awesome!! If you like big multipitch, rad trad, sick cracks from fingers to chimneys, bolted anchors, and beautiful views, this route is for you!! The famous crack on this route is 220m long and incredibly awesome. It protects well and demands a physical climbing style - come prepared with all the tricks in the book! However, don't come looking for bolts. All the anchors are bolted; however, there are only four extra bolts on the whole thing!
Part 1:
P1) Clip a couple bolts as you get started up the face, then head to a bolted anchor on a small platform below the large crack. 6a. P2) Head up the jugs to the left of the crack feature to rejoin the crack above. Gain a small ledge to the right below the large roof. Using some smallish crimpers, make a long move straight up to find the hidden jug. Belay from tree. 6a. P3) Don't bother taking any gear for this pitch; just some long runners. Head straight up chossy face using a brach on the tree as pro. Don't kick rocks down on your belayer. Clip a bolt on the right then traverse left across the ledge to a bolt anchor. 5c. P4) Plug a 0.5 in a flake then head up the rotten rock, trending left. Once you reach the jardin (trees and such), traverse back right along the ledge until you reach a bolt anchor at the base of the crack. There is a little wooden sign there. 5c.
Part 2:
This is where the fun begins!!! P5) Blast up into the dihedral crack for 40m until you reach a ledge with a bolt anchor. 6a+. P6) Clip a bolt then head into the wide crack. P7) The crux pitch! Super fun climbing up a hand crack. The anchor is uncomfortably in the crack after some hero jugs and a tufa. 6b. P8) Follow the crack that becomes more of a chimney at this point. Belay at anchor below the ceramic mask. P9) Use awesome tufas and jugs up through the gulley-like face. Long pitch. Watch Rope drag. Belay from a small prow with a big flake; the bolts are quite far apart from eachother. P10) Head through the crack to reach a ledge on the right. Chains for belay or clip and go. 6a+. P11) From here, you head up and right through a corner on the right. Route stays interesting to the very end. At the top of the crack, reach a roof, plug some pro, and traverse out right on jugs for the topout!

From the trail traversing across the scree field, hike for 100m max then head left up the hill, looking for the obvious big crack heading down from the large roof. There are bolts leading up the face on the first pitch.

It's also quite popular to skip the rather unremarkable first 4 pitches. From the jardin des Ecureils, skip the fixed line leading down to the normal descent and follow the cliff. You can gain the P4 ledge with two rappels from here, one on a tree.

This is a trad route. 4 bolts in 1000ft. Bolted anchors. Bring a set of stoppers, BD 0.4-4, doubling 1-4. Maybe a 5.