Type: Trad, 1080 ft (327 m), 12 pitches
GPS: 43.77616, 6.38699
FA: Joel Coqueugniot and François Guillot, 1968
Page Views: 3,597 total · 41/month
Shared By: Hyland Markle on Nov 9, 2018 · Updates
Admins: David Riley, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Incredible route, and quite the adventure. One of my favorite routes in the Verdon.

P1 6a (5.10a)

Start up a face/pilar feature to gain a large ledge. From the ledge, follow a splitter crack on the face on the left to reach the first anchor.

P2 5c (5.9)

Head straight up into a slab crux. Head into a corner and look for the anchor. Relatively short pitch.

P3&4 5c (5.9)

Follow an incredible crack feature up and left. P4 anchor on a bolt and a tree.

P5&6 6a & 5c+ (5.10a & 5.9+)

From the ledge, head up straight up a cruxy section in a dihedral, then traverse left back into the crack feature. Continue up the crack until you reach a bolt anchor on the right side of the crack, about halfway up. From here, continue up the crack to a comfortable belay ledge.

P7 5c (5.9)

Traverse out left into the beginning of the chimneys! Woot! Follow the chimney until you can traverse out right into a thin finger crack. This 10 feet of crack was the crux of the route for me, so be ready.

P8 6a (5.10a)

Traverse across the slab to the right into the dihedral. Follow the dihedral then traverse back left across the face after by a roof feature.

P9 5b (5.8)

Follow easy ledges into the chimneys.

P10&11 5c & 6a (5.9 & 5.10a)

The meat and potatoes of this climb. Incredible chimney climbing. Follow the bolts. Pitch 11 has a big tree in the middle of it.

P12

It ain't over yet! Head up and right to a ledge, then traverse back left into the chimney and head up to the top, staying in the corner more-or-less.

http://tradannot.over-blog.com/2022/11/la-demande-verdon-reequipement-dans-le-cadre-des-projets-heritages-ouvreurs-de-la-ffcam.html

Location Suggest change

From the ledge after the last rappel, head down the fixed line into the cave. Follow the trail on the far side of the cave as it winds down to the scree slope. After about 200ft, you should reach a trail that cuts across the scree slope (potentially small cairn visible). Turn left and follow this trail (upstream).

After maybe 150m, you will reach the base of the climb. Look for the P1 crack on the left face of a right-facing dihedral, up on a ledge about 40 feet up. 

Protection Suggest change

Route debolted late ‘23. Trad route. Bring a set of stoppers, 2-3 120cm slings, alpine draws, and double BD #0.3-3, and #4.

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