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The Whining
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Apetizer Wall
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Apetizer S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Atmosphere S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Blue Mask, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Dwarf Toss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Eating the Gun S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fang S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Final Sound, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Gorillas in the Snow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hard Blues S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Invisible Man, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Monkey Brains S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Muscle and Hate S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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One Half, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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One That Got Away, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Other Half, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Redrum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shining, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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This Must Be The Pickle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Whining, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 40.45152, -111.67645 |
| FA: | Bill Boyle |
| Page Views: | 978 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Oct 28, 2018 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
A surprisingly pumpy route that follows a left-facing layback crack with a crimpy crux at the very end. Besides a few short sections of poor rock, the route is pretty solid.
Follow wandering pockets up a vertical face to the base of the obvious crack. Layback moves, some jams, and the occasional pocket help you make progress. When the route jogs hard left the rock quality of the flake deteriorates for a short section. However, the choss is easily avoided if you stay below the flake and use the pockets to reach solid flake again.
Eventually, you will reach the large undercling just below the headwall. Make use of a few small crimps and pull your way past the redpoint crux to glory. Finish on the anchors for This Must Be the Pickle.
Be sure to warn people not to stand below you when climbing on this route. Also, cleaning this route is a bit of a hassle. Just have you belayer anchor to a tree so you can stay clipped to rope to avoid taking huge swing.
With some new bolts and some cleaning this route would definitely be more popular and will only improve with additional traffic.
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