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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Parking Lot Wall
Pentax
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.4 from 9
votes
Routes in Parking Lot Wall
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5$ Dirtbag S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baby Teddy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bed Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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C.E.R.B. S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Covid Crusaders S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Definitely Not The Dawn Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Free Range Alan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grrr T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Isolator, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Jiminy Cricket T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Kiss T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Miss Five T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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My Beautiful Brittany S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Skool T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Owl Teddy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Peder's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pentax T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Planedemic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pleasure Horn, The S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Pole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Power of Pippin, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Return 2 Climbing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snuggle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tumour in the Head S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Vigilante V5 6C |
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Zed Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 49.71077, -123.14127 |
| FA: | M Cundy, D Sarkany, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 771 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roberts on Oct 27, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Very different flavour from the rest of the routes at the crag. A little less splitter, a little less jamming, a little more awkward and a little more runout.
Awkward jam off the deck leads to some easier climbing up to a single bolt in the middle of the face. I'm assuming one is meant to slab up the face while avoiding the tantalizing edges that Owl Teddy offers. By the time you mantle the bolt feels kind of far away, but it's not that bad - just a little more spicy than the other routes.
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