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Routes in c. Main Face
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Black Tide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cool Jerk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cool Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Craig's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crashing by Design S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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D.C. S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Direct Helix (Betty Boop) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Let the Man Bring You Down T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dress S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drum Solo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Echoes of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eight is Enough S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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First Aid T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Fly and Scatter S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Funk 49 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jerky Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jim Dandy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jimini S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Man Got You Down, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Midnight Rambler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Option, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Pali Gap S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Peggy Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Spring Fever (aka Risky Business) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Strange Days S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tap & Die S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Twist & Shout T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Usual, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Warlock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.81752, -68.49484 |
| FA: | Les Ellison, Galen Kenoyer 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,040 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | BDalhaus on Oct 6, 2018 |
| Admins: | BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
Description
This corner/crack system is worthwhile and fun. The old guide referred to it as dirty, but it appears to have cleaned up over time. Follow the crack and corner straight up with good gear and a variety of moves before reaching the bolt anchor. Rappel with a 60m rope.
From here, you can continue with a 2nd pitch to reach the base of the off-width, and then a 3rd pitch of climbing the off-width and stepping left onto the face above. Most people are content with the first pitch.
Location
Follow the trail past the Maple Run Wall, past the Mushroom Boulder, then before heading up to the Main Wall, turn right and follow the trail downhill to the right side of the Main Wall. This climb is the crack/corner on the right side before the trail begins back uphill. It is also the next crack right of the wide crack of Cool Jerk.
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