Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Craig McGee /Josh Lavigne Aug/2018 (With help from Marc Piche and Jesse Bouliane in 2016/17)
Page Views: 970 total · 37/month
Shared By: Craig McGee on Sep 30, 2018
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description

This route is found on the South face of Pigeon and eventually climbs the huge golden dihedral on the upper headwall in an amazing position!! The start follows lower angle cracks and corners until the mid-way ledge is gained and then the real climbing begins. The upper pitches of the route are quite Yosemite-esqu, with lots of “meat and potato” jamming and enduro pitches.

Rack:
Depending on your comfort and jamming abilities on the crux enduro pitch, a double rack from micro cams to BD #4 should suffice. Although, a number #5 camalot is optional for pitch 1, 5 and 6. More small to med cams can be used on these pitches too.

1) 5.9 (59m)
Step out of the moat and climb up the furthest right crack that gains the ridge the earliest. Once you gain the ridge, climb up a few metres of off-width (optional #5) and then clip a bolt on the ridge and move back left and up deteriorating cracks just left (west) of the ridge until you attain the belay at 59m. Place your protection wisely so you don’t have too much rope drag.
 
2) 5.10 (45m)
Awkwardly climb down and over to the left facing dihedral. Climb up this corner and pull a committing move out left  around a small roof lip (crux). When over the lip, follow the right corner and cracks up and to a belay just below a prominent ledge.

Move the belay up and slightly left to the base of the low angle cracks.

3) 5.8 (50m)
Climb up the crack of your choice. Once you have pulled into lower angle terrain, follow the corners heading up and left to find a bolted belay at 50m.

Move the belay over to the base of a small arch below a series of left leaning flakes. This is directly below the prominent golden corner.

4) 5.10 (20m)
Climb a few metres directly above the belay until you can place a cam and make a few delicate and committing moves left and up to a bolt. Continue delicately up some bongo flakes (another bolt) until you can undercling up and left to a down-sloping ledge. Clip a bolt and head down and right until you can clip another bolt and pull up onto the slab and to the belay below the golden corner.
 
5) 5.12- (or 5.11- A0) (40m)
Boulder through a vicious height dependant crux and then make your way up the amazing Yosemite like golden corner. Up higher in the corner switch from the right to left cracks. If free climbing the crux, aid up to the second bolt and then return to the ledge to protect yourself from a ledge fall. The boulder problem can easily be aided through with two moves of A0. The pitch takes a variety of gear from small TCU’s to an optional #5

6) 5.11+ (50m)
The money pitch and the pitch you came for! Step up right from the belay and into the amazing “Yosemite-chug and plug” enduro crack. The pitch takes a variety of gear, from small TCU’s to an optional #5. One bolt protects the mid-way crux which can either be laybacked or jammed on insecure shallow flares.
 
7) 5.10+ (40m)
Step left and make your way up the awesome splitter hand crack in the Golden headwall!!

8) 5.10 (45m) (or many options.)
Make your way up the deep V groove caped by roofs, take care while gingerly passing a precarious looking flake. Once under the roof, head right and traverse to a thin crux exiting the roof. Head up the first crack after the roof and belay on the next major ledge. Manage your rope and protection placements wisely or you will be fighting rope drag.

9) 5.8 (30m) (many options)
Step right and up flakes and cracks to the next ledge and belay.

10) 5.10 (30m) (many options)
The first ascent team continued straight up through small cracks and mossy slabs to finish on a perfect finger crack that pulls directly onto the summit.  Other easier options are available.

Descent:
All belays are bolted for rappels.

Scramble 100m down the east ridge until you can follow a ledge system on the south side back to the last bolted belay. You can make a 60m rappel from the top of pitch 5 to the mid-way ledge.  

Location


The route is found on the South Face of Pigeon. It starts from the midway glacial bench a couple hundred metres up from the actual toe and where will find two large left facing (west facing) corners. The route starts in the furthest west corner, just to the right of a prominent arch. The climb doesn’t start in the corner itself, instead  start in the center of the right wall (facing west), in the most right hand crack that gains the ridge the earliest.

Protection

Depending on your comfort and jamming abilities on the crux enduro pitch, a double rack from micro cams to BD #4 should suffice. Although, a number #5 camalot is optional for pitch 1, 5 and 6. More small to med cams can be used on these pitches too.

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