Type: Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: K. Younge, B Gillett, P. Bodnar, 2004
Page Views: 136 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 10, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This relatively sustained slab of pitch 1 presents 2 areas of difficulty: one is a bit over 1/2 way up at a thin section, the second very near the top as the wall steepens and the footholds get thin.

The bolts are certainly adequate to protect the pitch well but not sufficient to aid on if you can not free the line, as they are 10+ feet apart rather consistently.

Climb up to the first bolt on Alpen Glow, and then continue on the left line of bolts. At the very top of the line, most climbers will probably stay left of the last 2 bolts (as annotated as one option in the Gillett book) and then pay the price of a hard move trying to move right that the end, but Gillett also mentions a right hand option, taking an earlier crux in exchange for the later one, crossing to the right of the bolts at the second to last one.

After 100' the bolt/chain anchors are reached, as for Gray Pilgrim or Lunar Eclipse.

Pitch 2 is of decidedly a different nature but is certainly as good and worth doing. Look up over the belay to a bolt on the face and then one hanging just inches over a 5' roof. Amble up and clip bolt #1, then step up, lean out, feel around the lip for the bolt over the roof, and clip that, just to the right of an obvious jug (but hard to see until you've pulled the roof).  Shorter climbers, or rather, those with shorter arms, at least, might not appreciate the span required to make this clip. If you are below 5'6", chat with your partner about this before taking the lead.

Clip up the rope, and then make some powerful then balancy moves to get established on the face above the roof. Clip a third bolt, then figure out how to either move up onto a singular foothold with nothing for hands (10+/11-), or to move left to grab the arete and make fun but insecure moves (10+) to better hands and a rest to clip the 4th bolt. From there, the grade eases. You can place a few cams in a horizontal if desired before romping up the last 7 meters of slab (5.5?) to the top anchor, which is bolts with chain.

To descend, rap 70' back to the top of P1, then rap 100' to the ground.

Location

This 2-pitch bolted line is the left of the two bolted lines at the right hand margin of the climbs on this cliff.  It shares and initial bolt with 'Gray Pilgrim' before that route splits off to the right.

Both are most easily found by ambling up and right on ledges past the tower that forms 'Twilight' up and over a tree growing horizontally on the ledge and past the first bolted line, Steel Gray, and then up to the scrubby slot with 2 inward facing cracks that marks the start of Alpenglow, Solar Eclipse, and Gray Pilgrim. Go up this slot, and watch for bolts on the face that appears to the right.

Protection

A set of slings/draws + optional cams (3" or so) to protect before the final slab runout (very easy) on the top of P2, if desired.

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