Type: Trad
FA: Yes
Page Views: 191 total · 38/month
Shared By: Greg D on Aug 19, 2018
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Pie Direct is the direct start to the already fantastic Apple Pie. Most people climb the start of Zanzibar Dihedral and angle right to Apple Pie at the weakness 30 feet up. Some climb up Zanzibar Dihedral a bit and place a piece or two then climb down to the ledge to toprope the slab. Some just solo the 9 X slab just right of Zanzibar Dihedral. There is still plenty of room to do so. Instead, from the start of the base of the Zanzibar Dihedral , walk approximately 15 feet down and right on the wide ledge and identify the first bolt about 25 feet up. Do two easy mantels to reach the first bolt. Find your way to the second bolt, then, straight up to the Apple Pie finger crack.

Location

15 feet right of Zanzibar Dihedral.

Protection

2 bolts then lots of finger-sized gear for the Apple Pie crack.

Photos

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Greg D
Here
  PG13
Greg D   Here
  PG13
After a nice long chat with the FA, Steve Kentz, he asked why doesn't someone add a few bolts to make a direct line up the slab to join the crack. I told him I would do that with his blessing. He thought it would be awesome. Aug 19, 2018
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
As long as you got approval from the FA party, then this is ok, otherwise you're likely to have a bunch of people with pitchforks knocking down your door for adding a bolt to Weller Slab.

The "direct start" of Apple Pie has always been the actual start; most people just decided to avoid the 5.9 X slab by traversing in from Zanzibar. Since 'Pie D' isn't actually a new route, I'd like to add your description of the new start to the existing Apple Pie route page and remove this page. Aug 20, 2018
Nice addition to straighten out the line on this one. Climbing feels thoughful and in keeping with the upper crack. Thanks, Greg! Aug 20, 2018