Type: Trad, 125 ft (38 m)
FA: M. Cohen and S. Kentz, 1971
Page Views: 11,649 total · 72/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Jun 16, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun, right-facing corner with great gear. Stem, layback, jam your way up to a crux move as the corner leans right. The corner pinches at this point for a move and then there is a great jam, pull around a small bulge on excellent holds, and you are home free.

Location

To reach Zanzibar, climb either Ski Pole or Two Ears (recommended) to the large ledge at the base of the dihedral (60m rope).

Two Ears (5.7) starts right behind a large pine tree at the base and works up broken rock to a series of cracks (2 pins) and veers up and right after about 90 feet. Find the big ledge and Zanzibar is right above you.

Walk off to the west, somewhat steep and loose. After descending for a couple of hundred feet, keep an eye out for a small trail up through broken rock on your left. Go up and over a small shoulder and you will see your packs down by the big pine. You will pass beneath a couple of sport routes, including Nickels and Dimes, 8 bolts, 10c.

You can rap the route (and Two Ears as a second rap) only if you bring two ropes, or are very careful with an 80m rope.

Protection

Small to medium cams, medium nuts, one big Camalot #3 or #3.5 works up high. There are two bolts at the top, but they are for routes to the right and would leave you in a semi-hanging stance. Better to build your anchor on top and find a comfortable seat for the belay.

Photos