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Routes in Weller Slab

Apple Pie T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Militant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickels and Dimes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ski Pole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Ears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ultra Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zanzibar Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 160 ft
FA: H. Barlow & S. Kentz
Page Views: 1,273 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jeff Stephens on Sep 12, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a short but stellar Yosemite-style finger crack on upper Weller Slab. It splits the face between Zanzibar Dihedral and Ultra Edge. Climb the start of [[Zanzibar]105978828 and traverse right at a horizontal hand crack to the beginning of the finger crack. Alternatively, paddle directly up the unprotected 5.9 slab for 25 feet to the fingers section. Then enjoy the superb fingerlocks and fine friction of the clean face. Clear a small lip and, after the crack disappears, face climb up with occasional pro to the top.

Seems this climb is usually toproped by parties after climbing Zanzibar.

Location

Climb Two Ears, move right, and begin 10 feet right of Zanzibar Dihedral. Rap the route, then rap Two Ears. If climbs are occupied, you can walk off down crappy eroded path to the west.

Protection

Small cams, offset nuts, nothing bigger than 2". 2 bolt anchor at top of face, good for rapping, but more comfortable to belay off of tree about 10 feet back fro the edge. Bring some long slings.

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Kyle Broxterman
Snowmass Village, CO
 
Kyle Broxterman   Snowmass Village, CO
 
I started at the base of the slabs, after placing a #2 about 15ft. up in Zanzibar Dihedral and then going back down to the beginning. Climb the techy slabs with minimal hands with no pro, towards a horizontal hand crack. First available pro is in this crack. Once at the hand crack the finger crack is obvious. Climb the finger crack up towards the chains way above you. The finger crack starts basic, and slowly gets smaller and smaller, until you reach point that requires some technical strenuous moves to achieve some good holds. After that, just climb the rest of Zanzibar Dihedral to the chains. Awesome climb!!! Sep 7, 2017