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Early Access
Routes in 1. Trek Wall
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Mattrimoney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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That’s My Bush T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Underklingon T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vulcan Death Grip, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.50391, -105.3706 |
| FA: | Jared Fehr |
| Page Views: | 1,745 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | J Rock on Aug 19, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closure: Fire Mitigation
Details
Per: Zach Taylor #656, Park Manager, Staunton State Park
Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is under way:
- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is under way:
- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
Work your way up through slab, crack, flake of varying integrity, and more crack to the top. Build a gear anchor, sling a rock, or use the ponderosa if you must for an anchor.
Protection
A standard rack and a bolted anchor(per Jay Eggleston) (formerly you built your own anchor).
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