Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 68.29841, 13.70678
FA: Knut Storvik 2005
Page Views: 774 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nathaniel Chu on Jul 21, 2018
Admins: Michael Sullivan, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A steep and juggy climb that requires plenty of power and less technical work, Commando will give you full license to pull on your biceps and make noise.

Start at the same spot as for Joker Nord, heading right at the first fork in the bolts, but go left at the second. Get established on a solid hold and use small feet to make a big move off a slopey rail. More fun big moves will take you up and right, and then back left through a fun sequence of unlikely holds. A final crack and side pull (Some jamming will come in handy. Good thing you are in Lofoten!) will get you to the chains.

The bad news is that the upper holds can seep, making those jams and the last hold very slimey. Also, this entire section of cliff is also popular with the sheep when it rains. Someone told them the beta that Eggum is dry in the rain. Expect to be in and amongst a good volume of sheep turd.

Location Suggest change

Head uphill at Eggum until your feet are covered in poop. Look up, and locate the distinct flake "shark fin" striped with water marks that punctuates the upper section of Joker Nord. Piece together the correct bolt path, which should terminate at an anchor just below and left of the shark fin.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, certainly less than 12.

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